In the heart of the morainic hills of lower Garda, in Pozzolengo, lies a place that succeeds in combining elegance, hospitality and a cuisine capable of excitement: the Design Agri Relais Moscatello and Muliner. Refined but never excessive, the relais immediately strikes you with its style, with attention to every detail. The furnishings are a tribute to contemporary design, with unique pieces and tastefully chosen materials, creating cosy, light-filled rooms with great personality.
But the sophisticated atmosphere is only the prelude to an experience that goes far beyond aesthetics. What makes this place truly special are two young professionals who have succeeded in imprinting a strong and authentic identity on the project: Andrea Feder, the chef, and Elia Bernardini, who is in charge of the dining room. Both very young, they display a surprising professional maturity, made up of passion, dedication and vision.
Elia welcomes guests with a natural politeness, never set in stone, always attentive and present without being intrusive. His knowledge of the menu, wines and raw materials is profound, but what is really striking is the way he manages to create an intimate, almost family-like atmosphere, putting each guest at ease and accompanying them, step by step, on a path of discovery.
In the kitchen, Andrea demonstrates an astonishing mastery of techniques and a rare sensitivity in the use of ingredients. His is a cuisine that starts from the territory, enhances its excellence and reinterprets it with intelligence and originality. Most of the raw materials come directly from the relais's agricultural estate, with a view to sustainability and a very short supply chain.
The tasting opens with an entrée that already reveals the chef's playful and refined approach: aubergine mousse with bay leaf powder, polenta chips with rocket sauce and a surprising dark chocolate macaron filled with foie gras and caramelised onion. Three different morsels, each with its own identity, united by balance and precision.
This is followed by the starter, poetically named “Orto”: a dish that exalts the vegetable world in all its forms and textures, with a refreshing celery sorbet and a walnut crumble to give structure. A hymn to seasonality and delicacy, which manages to excite without special effects.
The first course is a “Risotto” cooked in yellow dates, garnished with a tender donkey stew and an aromatic note of pineapple sage. A play of contrasts between the natural sweetness of the tomato and the depth of the meat, combined with an impeccable mantecatura and elegant presentation.
The second is a dish of great technique and taste: “Branzino” crusted with spinach, mushroom duxelles and Franciacorta mousse. Precise cooking, sharp flavours, harmony between land and sea: a dish that speaks of balance and attention, with a final touch - the mousse - that adds lightness and aromaticity.
To close, two desserts that demonstrate that Moscatello's pastry is by no means a closing note, but a true highlight. The “Mousse” is an enveloping embrace of dark chocolate, accompanied by a surprising extra virgin olive oil ice cream and an orange crumble that lends freshness and crunch. “Autumn”, on the other hand, is a perfect example of an evocative dessert: a chestnut parfait served with pumpkin mousse and rhubarb ice cream, encapsulating the colours and scents of the season in a single dish.
